Looking for Tips on Dana 60 Rear End Builds

I’m diving into a project where I want to swap out my current rear axle for a Dana 60, and I could really use some guidance. Here are a few specific things I’m curious about:

What should I look for when purchasing a Dana 60 rear end?

  • Specifications: Are there specific specs I should prioritize? What’s the difference between the various models available?
  • Manufacturers: Are there reputable manufacturers like Strange Engineering or Moser Engineering that I should consider?

Compatibility

  • Vehicle Models: What vehicles are best suited for a Dana 60 swap? I want to ensure it’s a good fit for my setup.

Installation Tips

  • Installation Process: What are the common pitfalls during installation? Any tips for ensuring things go smoothly?
  • Tools and Parts Needed: What tools should I have on hand, and are there specific parts that are often overlooked?

Performance and Modification

  • Upgrades: If anyone has experience with modifications to the Dana 60, what upgrades would you recommend for better performance?
  • Common Issues: Are there known issues I should be aware of when running a Dana 60 setup?

I appreciate any advice or experiences you all have had with Dana 60 rear ends. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

I’ve done several Dana 60 builds. Key things to watch for are the gear ratios—like 4.10s for off-roading or 3.54s for daily driving. Make sure you choose a setup that fits your driving style.

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That’s great advice! Also, don’t overlook the axle sizes. Typically, a full-float setup gives you more durability if you’re pushing heavy loads.

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Make sure you check the compatibility with your vehicle. Some models need extensive modifications to fit a Dana 60 rear end. It’s not just a simple swap!

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Exactly! If you’re working with a Jeep, look for a narrow track version. It’ll fit better without major alignment headaches.

In my experience, a 4.56 gear ratio is a solid choice for rock crawling. But for highway driving, you might want something like 3.73s.

Great point! I think a lot of people underestimate how gear ratios impact overall vehicle performance, especially when rock crawling.

Don’t forget about the differential type! A locker will engage more aggressively than an open diff, which is crucial for off-roading.

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Absolutely! Having a limited-slip can also help with traction on slippery surfaces without being as aggressive as a full locker.

Your choice of brakes is vital too. Some setups need custom brake lines, which can lead to more expenses than anticipated.

True! I’ve seen so many builds fail at the brake stage because they underestimated this part. Budget for it!

Also, consider the weight distribution of your vehicle. A Dana 60 can be heavy—make sure your suspension can handle it without excessive sag.

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Good advice! A lot of people overlook how the added weight affects handling and stability.

What about the overall cost? I priced out a new Dana 60 and it was alarming. It’s helping me think twice about my budget!

Costs can definitely add up! But sourcing used parts can save you a lot, assuming they’re in good condition.

Has anyone toyed with mixing gear ratios? I’ve heard mixed opinions on that. Is it worth the risk?

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Not usually a good idea! It can lead to some pretty rough handling. Stick with the same ratio across all axles.

Why not just throw in a Dana 40? Just kidding! Make sure you update your driveline components if you go for a Dana 60. Don’t want any surprises.

Hey everyone! I’m starting to build a Dana 60 rear end and I’m looking for upgrade options. What’s your take on open vs. limited slip differentials?

I’d definitely recommend a limited slip for better traction, especially if you’re planning to take it off-road. The extra grip can make a huge difference!